Clean & Oil
|Clean & Oil|
|The Best Technique
Here is how we do it at the shop.
2: Place the Patch on a Jag and run it down the barrel. You could also use a bore mop for this, but we like the tight fit that the jag and patch gives us. The first patch run through will usually have a black green color from the carbon and corrosion left from the copper. Let that sit for a few minutes.
3: Run another cleaner soaked patch through the barrel, scrubbing in a short up and down fashion as you move through the barrel. This is where a good quality cleaning rod will follow the rifling.
4: Depending on the amount of copper I believe to be built up in the bore, I will run a dry patch or a brush, depending on. Continue to run a dry patch through the bore until it is pretty much clean.
5: Check the muzzle using a light. Look at the muzzle, if the copper solvent is worth it weight you will be able to see the actual copper on the lands and groves, just inside the muzzle. The reason we look into the barrel after the first set of patches is that the copper is much easier to see at this point.
6: After the first round, continue cleaning using the same process until you no longer see the copper, then do it one more time just in case.
7: After checking the bore, run a lightly oiled patch through the barrel. Most of the solvent products today have a rust preventative in them, but if you are not going to shoot the gun for a while this is just a little extra prevention.
8: Make sure to run a dry patch threw the barrel before the next shooting challenge to remove any excess oil or potential dust.
And that is it! Small cleaning maintenance will keep your gun out of the shop and on the range longer.
Potential Damages to My Gun?
Prior to using Pro Shot Copper Solvent, I was a big fan of the Ammonia base products Barns CR-10, Sweets 7.62, etc. I know the big question is, “Will this etch my barrel?” I think it is best to say, all of them probably do to one degree or another. I only say this because every manufacturer of copper removal solvents adds a warning to their label, “Do not to leave in barrel over “X” minutes”.
So why use it at all?
It saves you time, money, increases your accuracy, and a cleaner bore is a safer bore. I like to think of it like this, “The faster we get the gun clean, the faster we could go shoot.” Plain and simple, don’t you agree. Keep in mind, the number 1 reason damage occurs in the muzzle and throat, is from the cleaning rod, if you are cleaning without a bore or muzzle guide.
The ammonia based bore cleaners have developed a poor reputation from first time users who had never used a good bore cleaner. Generally, the stuff smells bad, will cause damage to some stocks, and just not something that you can do at the kitchen table (especially for us married folks), but the do clean relatively well. However, if you had thought that your gun was clean and you cleaned it every time after shooting, and switch to a copper cleaning solvent, you maybe in for a big surprise. The bluish-green tint on the cleaning pad does not lie.
Copper buildup and the gun barrel steel do not get along very well. When moisture gets between the copper and the steel, pits can begin to form. To a novice looking down a barrel that is smooth and shinny; the oil they are using can make it look clean. Then after cleaning it properly with a copper removing solvent, they find that the bore is actually dark and pitted.
Is it the fault of the ammonia products? No. It’s the type of cleaner being used. It is like removing grease with soap. It will remove just enough to look better. You want to remove it with the right cleaner. I admit I was a big fan of the ammonia cleaners, due to the speed at which they worked. Then, I tried Pro Shot Copper Remover IV and found out that it was faster than the others, easier to use, and did not chase everyone out of the shop from the thick ammonia smell when you open the bottle.
Depending on the bullets you are using, most guns have copper fowling buildup starting between 12 to 20 rounds, some after 6.
I shot 40 rounds through my 308 in about an hour. I noticed the rounds began to wander around the 22 nd round. After all 40 rounds, I cleaned the gun with a jag and a patch, without a brush, and it was quick. I also added some Iosso Bore Paste with Iosso Gun Oil. I ran the patch down the barrel with the oil and then the bore paste. You can use a jag and patch combo or a nylon brushes to scrub the barrel. After scrubbing, run a patch and jag down the barrel again to remove the cleaner until the barrel is clean. You will know you have cleaned it good when there is no residue on the patch. Make sure you are checking for any copper. Don’t forget to ensure that the lug recesses and chamber are both clean. Finally, oil a patch, run it down the barrel, and you’re done.
By the way Iosso manufactures one of the best Nylon Brushes on the market. I have not found any other brushes on the market as stiff. I stopped using most of my bronze brushes when the Iosso Eliminator Brushes came out. I was also impressed with the Iosso Bore Paste. It is very fast in cleaning, non-hazardous, and biodegradable.
Cleaning the copper has always been a chore, but it is something that must be done to keep a bore in good condition and it prolongs the accuracy of the firearm.
We have used about 99% of the cleaners and bore solvents on our site. If they do not stand up to our expectations, we don’t sell them.
So if you have any questions let us know.
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